Caminha’s center square is a sea of tables and chairs belonging to various restaurants and cafes housed in the noble looking structures lining its sides.  It’s easy to imagine it in the summer, a beehive of joyful activity, yet while only a few people sat drinking coffee this morning it was beautiful.  The 16^th century Igreja da Misericordia displayed a wildly ornate, gilded altar for such a small space, but it too was beautiful in a Rococo sort of way. 

We found our way to the Ecopista, a pedestrian and cycling path that hugs the Minho River for 32 km from Caminha to Valenca, the last city before our route crosses the river into Spain.   The path is carefully maintained, equipped with frequent benches and picnic tables and even a “refuge” mid-way serving a pilgrim menu of spicy chicken wings, french fries, salad, drink and coffee for Euro 7.50.  We ambled in this idyllic quiet setting for 7 hours before crossing the Minho and entering Tui, our first destination in Spain.

All the flags in Portugal and Spain are flying at half-mast in observance of the Pope’s death.