April 24, 2025

Paula’s Weekly Summary: News from the Back.

We’ve walked 567km averaging 27 kms a day.  Vasco de GamBa has kept us safe and on the path. While walking, frequently single file, we engage in interesting conversations.  The road noise can be overwhelming, and we often fail to hear the correct words or content, but 43 years of marriage and a good imagination increase the entertainment value.

The epic, historical, almost biblical rain has passed. An enduring image remains – a procession of pilgrims appearing to be chased down the beach path by billowing parachutes of brightly colored backpack covers in stark contrast to the dark and menacing sky.  In silhouette they resembled the Jacob Lawrence migration series.  Maybe April is the cruelest month.

But the sun has come out, Lent is over, our hotel windows are draped with laundry and the Camino tan is awakened. Not quite the Hajj, the Camino routes are lined with walkers. The metronome-like tapping of walking stick on pavement announces their proximity.  I am nostalgic for our solitude, for our fumbling, the pausing at intersections turning to all compass points and with a shrug hoping for the best. It was a walk but often resembled a scavenger hunt with an impish gps system. I realize this isn’t very Christian of me. Edward is the friendly Pilgrim.

Of course, no new update would be complete without a check in on the piggies. “The feet”, as they like to be called, are no longer enjoying top billing. Without the extensive morning rituals of mummification life has become simpler: put on socks, put on shoes. However, 10 new toenails will be on the Christmas list.

We read the news and struggle to comprehend let alone explain the America of today. I find myself veering off to secondary headlines of stories about a 26 lb. rabbit saved from a shelter and a group of polar bears repurposing an abandoned Russian weather station.

While checking out of our hotel a guest answering the clerk’s question, explained that she was returning home to Copenhagen.  I discreetly approached her and apologized. The lovely hotel guest responded with an elegant thank you. She didn’t say “Of course” or “Don’t be silly, no need for an apology”.  She just said thank you.  Earlier that day I learned that an Air B&B, in Copenhagen, was refusing to rent to Americans.  I hope we can find our Norma Rae like courage, jump on the table and hold up our signs proudly.

Souvenirs do not feature prominently on this walk.  No time, no space to accumulate treasures or mementos.  So, chards and mangled rusted wire suffice.  In addition to these collectables there is one more treasure I bring home. I have found a single playing card on each of our three previous walks. Just one card on each walk.  These weathered cards are framed and on display in our house in Flint Hill.  My dear friend MB, noticing the cards, asked their significance. I struggled to answer, I hadn’t identified any significance to these coincidental finds.  I just saw them on the road and liked the caprice. He pressed further: “might there be some significance?”   Suddenly! Yes, yes of course, now it seems so obvious.  My deceased parents loved playing cards, their social life included card games with friends. Last week I found the 2 of hearts along a busy road.  The google definition of the 2 of hearts is: “the 2 of hearts tells us there is power and purpose to be found in sharing the path with another.”