We prepared for heat, cold, rain, even snow.  We did not prepare for cold and rain and a 35-mph wind gusting to 45-mph as we beat against it along the sandy shore.  So that was invigorating.   Our gear held up and we arrived in Esposende chilled but dry, our cheeks stinging from the pelting rain…

The longest period of rain occurred some 230 million years ago when it rained continuously for 1-2 million years. We are just so lucky. We often pause for a few minutes rest, water and, sometimes, an orange or a chocolate at bus stops which in Portugal are covered and protected from wind on 3 sides…

We walked on an old Roman road, in the rain, with occasional glimpses of the sea, in anticipation of our arrival in Porto. Porto did not disappoint. An eclectic, dynamic, colorful (even the graffiti are beautiful) city, dripping with a long history dating back to the 1st century BCE and more recently the 9th century…

12 days in and covering 24 km easily regardless of weather conditions which, I’m just saying, have been putrid.  5 more days of rain are predicted.   I walk ahead, navigating, setting the pace and anticipating road crossings or rail crossings, occasionally looking back to make sure Paula is close behind.  Her smiling face keeps me…

As we left Agueda we admired some whimsical paintings on the walls of the Wine Museum that were not directly relevant to wine but perhaps suggested the misguided benefits of fine wine. T The weather then changed and became quite challenging, not only because it entailed walking into 20 mph winds slapping your face with…

Yesterday we were supposed to walk from Coimbra to Mealhada, an easy 23 km stroll. We visited the Joanina library in Coimbra before setting out, but the skies opened as soon as we started walking and it continued, in Biblical proportions, for the next couple of hours at which point, sopping wet and cold, we…

It wasn’t Stewe’s voice from Family Guy screaming “Are we really doing this again” in my head, no, this time it was the beautiful baritone of Leonard Cohen declaring “I ache in places where I used to play.” The Zebra and Wilderbeast are back. That beautiful reciprocal relationship, congratulating one another on stamina, and complimenting…

Harry Potter is alive and well in this university town to which finally we arrived after a long walk. Many houses and other structures we pass have highly decorated ceramic tiles called azuelos mostly in blue and white reminiscent of Delftware. The intricate designs portray religious or historical scenes with a narrative or prayer. Sometimes…

While walking in a forest dark, along a rocky path through cork oak and olive groves we came upon a group dining al fresco: table, chairs, tablecloth, various foods and beverages arrayed on and near the table.  Back packs and discarded shoes strewn about.  In response to shouts of enticement to join them we stopped. …

We met Ruud, from Holland by way of Switzerland where he has lived for the last 25 years, halfway to Alvaiazere; we were headed downhill he was coming up, doing the Camino in reverse from Santiago to Lisbon.  Where are you from, etc.… “Ah well,” he said, “sometimes you have to shake the tree.”  Paula…